Highlights of Nepal

From mountains to valleys to lakes to jungles, Nepal has it all. We set out to explore the country’s cultural and natural diversity and initially wanted an adventure that went beyond trekking. We worked with Earthbound Expeditions to put together an itinerary that included the “highlights of Nepal” – Kathmandu, Pokhara, and Chitwan in addition to the Annapurna trek.

it’s a stupa, stupid

 

Kathmandu – The Capital

From the second we landed in Kathmandu, we were overwhelmed by the suffocating pollution. The city competes with Delhi as one of the most polluted cities on Earth. Breathing the air is the equivalent of smoking a pack of cigarettes! The valley acts a perfect trap for exhaust fumes and dust caused by the major construction since the 2015 earthquake.

We found refuge in the the backpacker (and white people with dreads) haven, Thamel. You may as well call it “Little Israel” with the amount of Hebrew, hummus, and falafel. The vegetarian favorite, OR2K became our favorite spot as we ate there twice over our three days in Kathmandu (h/t Lauren and Yoav). Per usual, Paige craved Japanese food. She discovered a hidden gem, Japanese Kitchen Kizuna, tucked away in the trendy, Thamel Square. We ate authentic chicken katsu donburi and homemade miso soup two days in a row. It hit the spot!

mcm
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While in Kathmandu, we mainly stuck around Thamel, but did one day of siteseeing. Of the lot, nothing compared to Pashupatinath Temple. Here, the majority of locals say their final “goodbye” to loved ones and complete open-air cremations. The scene is surreal. A sequence of events: family members carry the body on metal stretchers to the banks of the Bagmati River (the river flows into the Ganges in India – a holy place for Hindus). The eldest son then washes the body from head to toe. After a number of prayers, the body is moved onto a bed of wood and hay. Finally, the eldest son lights a torch and sets the body, fueled by ghee (clarified butter), on fire. This all occurs right out in the open for anyone to watch. It’s unlike anything we’d ever witnessed.

 

Pokhara – Lakeside City

The quaint, little city is the gateway to the Annapurna region and all its trekking glory. We spent two days after our trek relaxing and partaking in the lakeside city’s adventure activities. To start, we pampered ourselves at Tranquility Spa with their half day package. We got a full body scrub, massage, and facial for $70. While not the best we’ve ever had, it gave us the relaxation we needed.

We then hopped on a bus to the Upper Seti River for an afternoon of whitewater rafting with Rapidrunner Expeditions. We shared our raft and made friends with a group of locals fully decked out in fancy clothes and full makeup. The rapids were only class II, but we had a ton of fun, prompting us to add “rafting trip” to our bucket list!

The highlight of Pokhara was our dinner at Caffe Concerto. While the pizza was solid, the entertainment provided by three ex-pat women next to us was even better. They struck up an initial conversation after complaining that their food was cold (but, not to worry because “they’re local, come all the time, and always complain about something”). We sat hysterically laughing for three hours discussing Trump, Australian politics, reality TV, and massages where they twist your nipples at the end (begrudgingly, not a part of our spa day).

 

Chitwan – The National Park

Chitwan lies in the southern-most region of Nepal where tigers and rhinos roam in the country’s largest national park. Unfortunately, the bus ride from hell left us with only one full day in Chitwan. We started the day with a relaxing canoe ride for some bird watching (in honor of Joel) and crocodile hunting. Next, we went on a walking safari through the jungle on our way to the elephant breeding center. Animals in captivity really depress us, so we were eager to get the hell out of there.

big year bird watching
free the elephants!

In the afternoon, we took a four hour jeep ride through the park. We quickly learned that November isn’t the best time of year for wildlife sightings. The grass grows to incredible heights after monsoon season, allowing animals to hide from eager eyes. For the first three hours, we saw a whole lot of vegetation, but no animals.

However, we got really lucky on the way back. We saw a wild elephant (who apparently killed four people this year) and a sloth bear (aka baloo from Jungle Book)! When leaving the park, we also spotted the famous one-horned rhino in the distance. Chitwan wasn’t a total bust, but I much prefered our safari in Ranthambore. It’s tough to compete with tigers.

safari success against all odds!

Outside of the trekking, I didn’t love Nepal. It’s probably because I’m a snob, we stayed in dumps, and we spent 18 hours on a bus. Still, the trekking is so incredible that I see us going back for more.

Who’s ready for Annapurna/ Everest Base Camp with us?!

 

 

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      I did that when abroad! The most amazing rafting. We need to find more rafting on our trip this time!

      You’re a bad ass, Auntie Lulu!

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